Giorgio Armani, the stalwart of Italian fashion, unveiled his latest men’s collection on Monday, characterized by fluid cuts and soft lines, showcasing a perfect blend of refinement and nonchalance.
In the intimate setting of his historic headquarters on Via Borgonuovo, models walked the runway under the watchful eye of the 89-year-old maestro, whose image was projected on the backdrop in piercing blue.
Armani emphasized that “Men’s fashion must not be an object of desire at any cost; it must be a nice suit, a beautiful jacket, a lovely fabric, a perfect color, and nothing more, or else we descend into carnival.”
Remaining loyal to his DNA of relaxed chic, Armani presented ample yet refined trousers and half-length unbuttoned coats, allowing freedom of movement. For the upcoming autumn-winter 2024/2025 collection, shapes have been enlarged “to provide even more ease and fluidity,” according to Armani.
The signature unstructured jackets, featuring no shoulder pads or lining, were showcased in various styles, ranging from a dandy look with a vest and pleated trousers to a sporty version with cargo pants tucked into boots.
“A tie depends on the occasion. We have one for the man who goes to the office, with the respect for this office, because I hope he’s not going to an important meeting in a T-shirt,” Armani commented on the discreet use of ties in the show.
In an industry where the challenge is to “do the usual in an unusual way,” Armani showcased his mastery on the fourth day of men’s Fashion Week.
Meanwhile, Zegna’s show, under the artistic direction of Alessandro Sartori, focused on fluid cuts and effortless elegance, transforming a vast hangar into an “oasis of cashmere.” The collection, designed for collectors, featured pleated trousers, turtleneck sweaters, and short vests with detachable lapels, reflecting meticulous attention to detail to meet men’s needs.
Milan’s Fashion Week concludes Tuesday with digital shows, paving the way for the fashion world to move on to Paris for men’s fashion and haute couture.