Reflecting on the monumental moments in Dries Van Noten’s career that changed the world of fashion
The glorious era of Dries Van Noten spanning 40 years officially comes to a close, but what the designer has done to revolutionize the fashion landscape from 1994 until now will always remain a golden milestone worthy of dissemination and preservation.
Content Summary The first womenswear collection presentation The lavish “banquet table” of the Spring/Summer 2005 show Reneir Holzmeler’s documentary film “Dries” in 2017 The 100th runway show in 2017
The fashion world continues to witness the farewell of one of its legendary “leaders”. Dries Van Noten officially concludes his era at his eponymous brand, ready to pass on his vast 40-year legacy to the next generation. The Dries Van Noten Men’s Spring 2025 runway show in June will mark the last time the Belgian designer steps onto the runway as the brand’s leader.
Hailing from a family with three generations in the tailoring business, both Van Noten’s father and mother owned their own fashion boutiques. Therefore, the fashion realm seemed to reserve a special place for the young Van Noten. Graduating from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in 1980, Van Noten honed his reputation as one of the members of The Antwerp Six in the 1980s. Alongside renowned designers like Ann Demeulemeester, Walter Van Beirendonck, Marina Yee, Dirk Van Saene, and Dirk Bikkembergs, all graduates of the same school, Van Noten helped put Antwerp on the fashion map. With youthful enthusiasm, boundless passion for fashion, they took their collections to London in 1986. The Antwerp Six illuminated Belgium on the global fashion stage. Renowned for his unique aesthetic and incredibly creative approach, Van Noten steadfastly walked his own path. He never bought advertising space in magazines, refrained from advertising campaigns, and declined fragrance licensing deals, despite lucrative offers from beauty giants. However, nearly forty years after its inception, his brand continues to thrive with notable collections and a capacity to evolve immune to the zeitgeist’s fluctuations.
While a glorious 40-year reign officially comes to a close, Van Noten’s legacy will endure, ready to welcome new successors. Before entering a new era at Dries Van Noten, let’s look back at 4 memorable moments in the journey that forever changed the world of fashion for the legendary Belgian designer:
The first womenswear collection presentation Following the initial “bang” from his characteristic menswear collections blending exquisite tailoring with avant-garde styles, Van Noten expanded his influence into the realm of women’s fashion. With a stroke of genius, the designer transformed a room at George V into a dreamlike setting, filled with mattresses, plush chairs scattered across the floor, inviting the audience to recline and immerse themselves in comfort, to leisurely enjoy that magical moment. This approach provided customers with an unprecedented intimate fashion experience. However, behind the glamour of this event was a “heart-wrenching” reality – a tight budget. This limitation forced Van Noten to deploy infinite ingenuity. And this memorable presentation marked the beginning of his long and illustrious career in women’s fashion, a career that will continue to inspire and influence generations of creative minds and fashion enthusiasts in the future.
The lavish “banquet table” of the Spring/Summer 2005 show It is difficult to pinpoint which of Dries Van Noten’s runway shows is at the pinnacle of design scenery, as throughout his career, he has staged countless impressive settings. Each space has its own distinct aesthetic and reflects his unique creative vision. However, some shows truly stand out thanks to their creative stage design and grandiose staging. Among them, the Spring/Summer 2005 runway show particularly shines.
To commemorate his 50th show, the designer organized a banquet dinner gathering five hundred guests. Like a movie, a long banquet table was set beneath a hundred and thirty crystal chandeliers, creating a magical, grandiose, and immensely majestic atmosphere. Every detail was meticulously arranged, from the glasses to the dishes, or the tablecloths, all reflecting Van Noten’s perfectionism. At the end of the show, attendees were presented with a book recounting fifty previous collections by the designer.
Reneir Holzmeler’s documentary film “Dries” in 2017 Fashion documentaries at that time had become commonplace, but this film about the talented Belgian designer stood out as one of the prominent works, warmly received by both the public and the fashion industry. For the first time, a fashion designer allowed a filmmaker to accompany him in the creative process as well as his private family life. Over the course of a year, Reiner Holzemer documented the precise steps that Dries took to shape four collections, the rich array of fabrics, embroideries, and prints dedicated to his creations. This film provides a glimpse into the life, the creative genius of a fashion master who, for decades, remained independent in an ever-evolving industry. It not only shows how Van Noten built his career, his brand in his own way, despite the acquisitions by conglomerates but also allows us to learn more about this somewhat reclusive designer, an intriguing soul with a touch of humor.
The 100th runway show in 2017 At a time when many independent designers were struggling to survive without the support of a luxury conglomerate or investment fund, Dries Van Noten continued to flourish in his own unique way, creating highlights to mark important milestones in his career. His 100th show is a prime example. The event brought together many legends on the runway, illuminating the dark Bercy boxing ring in Paris and adding color to Paris with vibrant floral installations, as well as a colorful palette highlighted with prints that have become his signature. With the participation of supermodels, the runway showcased a selection of the most beautiful pieces from Dries Van Noten’s universe.