Saint Laurent Fall 2024: Defying Seasons with Provocative ‘Naked Dresses’ and the Renaissance of the ‘Transparency’ Era”
“Nothing is more beautiful than a naked body” – a quote that encapsulates the fashion narrative Anthony Vaccarello passionately shared in the Saint Laurent Fall 2024 show.
The beauty, soul, and body of women have always been an endless source of creative inspiration for both the founder of Yves Saint Laurent and the current reigning “king,” Anthony Vaccarello. In the Le Smoking suit, revamped from its original masculine silhouette, the power that Yves Saint Laurent instilled in his women is not only conveyed through sharp square shoulders but also through daringly bare breasts concealed under the blazer.
It wasn’t until 1966 that the profound revolution in celebrating the female body truly began. Breaking free from the constraints of rigid norms to embrace a new standard, YSL created a masterpiece, a landmark in the fashion landscape – a sheer dress, delicately outlining a woman’s curves under a layer of chiffon. Thus began the Transparency era.
The legacy of “Transparency” and the “Naked Dresses” has always been a source of pride for YSL and subsequent custodians. Throughout his tenure, Anthony Vaccarello’s glamorous collections have always hinted at sheer dresses, carrying a powerful statement. At the current Saint Laurent Fall 2024 show during Paris Fashion Week, the bare female body is officially celebrated by Anthony with pride, unabashedly facing societal prejudices.
Transparency in fashion is not merely a fleeting trend but also an iconic phenomenon, a long-lasting revolution, confronting generational shifts in the positive perception of the body, showcasing individuality in celebrity culture, and the enduring affection for the body. Transparency has deep cultural connections, evidenced by prestigious red carpet fashion. The search volume for the keyword “sheer” on Google almost invariably spikes whenever a celebrity wears a sheer dress, so it’s no surprise that the “Transparency” exhibition currently taking place at the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris is breaking attendance records. Over 14,000 visitors have attended since its opening on February 2nd, with almost full capacity every day, demonstrating profound interest in the legendary designer’s groundbreaking works in sheer fabrics. This once again emphasizes the timeless existence of Transparency amidst the ever-changing fashion currents.
Saint Laurent’s Fall 2024 collection emerges as evidence of innovation, daring to tread where few have ventured before. Under Anthony Vaccarello’s creative direction, the collection unveils a story that is both familiar and entirely groundbreaking, challenging the classical elegance and bold beauty through sheer dresses.
As always, the Saint Laurent runway is set against the majestic backdrop of the Eiffel Tower, with long black leather-clad seats encircling a vast circular room, draped in forest green velvet curtains and a wet concrete floor, simulating a rainy Parisian street. Against the hypnotic music of Michel Gaubert, Anthony Vaccarello’s latest masterpiece for Saint Laurent begins with the sheer flesh-revealing looks, delicate layers of translucent fabric adorned with a sharp belt, worn over sheer tights, and a snug headpiece. This opening ensemble serves as a powerful prelude, a succinct summary of the entire Saint Laurent Fall 2024 collection.
“I wanted to create something fragile,” Anthony shares backstage. And then we witness the powerful procession of women’s bodies, subtly delineated under delicate layers of sheer silk, exuding sophistication and class. The show notes state: “Evoking the ‘naked dress’ famously worn by Marilyn Monroe in her final public appearance – a rich reference for fashion houses – a controversial look in the fashion world.” The line between sensuality and vulgarity is inherently delicate. Therefore, creating a sheer dress that garners acclaim from the fashion community has always been a challenging task for many designers. But at Saint Laurent Fall 2024, Anthony Vaccarello exceeds expectations.
Departing from the traditional notions we typically associate with “naked dresses,” Anthony Vaccarello attempts to redefine the concept, drawing inspiration from the timeless masterpieces of French fashion. The creative director reinterprets the allure of women’s curves into the most elegant, refined forms. Behind these designs lies meticulous research on control and precision, with billowy-sleeved blouse with a bow at the neck, pencil skirts, and figure-hugging draped dresses defining a new standard of elegance. Amidst the poised silhouettes and provocative fabrics, Anthony creates contrast, challenging the boundaries of conventional cover-up garments. Or the way Anthony presents “naked dresses” in various forms, such as having models wear thin skullcaps snugly covering their heads, as well as substituting renowned metal accessories with transparent plastic. Through these sheer flesh-revealing fabrics, tightly stretched around the body, viewers can distinctly perceive a sense of liberation, empowering the women of the house of Saint Laurent.
The procession of sheer dresses at Saint Laurent Fall 2024 may be a dreamy spectacle at Paris Fashion Week, but it’s a nightmare for artisans, the craftsmen behind the production process. To create smooth cuts, intricate folds on those delicate silk layers, shaping them without being affected by the wearer’s movements, undoubtedly, the artisans at the Saint Laurent workshop must have “wracked their brains” many sleepless nights, honing their craftsmanship to overcome the challenges set by Anthony. And it’s precisely this challenge that demonstrates Anthony’s unparalleled skills and creativity.
Saint Laurent Fall 2024 also presents an intriguing play between two contrasting concepts, between “exposure” and “concealment.” Interspersing eye-catching flesh-baring and off-season styles,