Italian craftsmanship and sophistication took center stage at Milan Men’s Fashion Week, reflecting a theme deeply ingrained in the country’s fashion heritage. Embodying timeless elegance, the showcased collections from various brands reaffirmed the enduring success of Italian fashion.
Gucci: Sabato De Sarno’s inaugural men’s catwalk for Gucci sparked diverse opinions. The collection, marked by a restrained color palette and distinctive details like choker necklaces and dandy neck ties, received some criticism for its lack of a clear vision. Despite this, leather outerwear, logo bags, and unique stylistic choices are expected to contribute to economic success for Kering. The true test lies in how De Sarno’s creations resonate with consumers, and the lively scenes in Gucci’s stores during Milan Fashion Week suggest a positive response.
Prada: Prada took a subversive approach in its FW24 collection, exploring the basics of fashion against a backdrop of office interiors and natural landscapes. The collection, emphasizing the necktie in a more casual interpretation, showcased trench coats, color-block trousers, and sandals, contributing to a relaxed aesthetic.
JW Anderson: JW Anderson embraced a new sensibility in its collection, moving away from artistic novelty to meet shoppers’ demands for real, wearable clothes. The collection featured oversized belted trenches and bomber jackets, striking a balance between personality and practicality.
Zegna: Alessandro Sartori’s minimalist styling revitalized Zegna, infusing its classic roots with precision. The sharp and lean collection envisioned a versatile system of dressing that encourages freedom and effortlessness. Despite potentially sharp cuts, the artful layering of wool and cashmere exemplified Zegna’s commitment to modernity and tradition.
Giorgio Armani: In his ninetieth decade, Giorgio Armani’s mastery of soft tailoring remained evident, with a relaxing of proportions and silhouette. The collection, marked by understated luxury and subtle textures, showcased Armani’s enduring balance between contemporary fashion and traditional tailoring.
Setchu: Satoshi Kuwata of Setchu, the 2023 LVMH Prize winner, presented a fresh take on contemporary elegance, drawing from his Savile Row experience. The collection seamlessly combined sophistication with practicality, featuring pieces that zipped, layered, and tied together seamlessly.
DSquared2: The DSquared twins, Dean and Dan Caten, brought high-octane energy to Milan Fashion Week with their signature showmanship. The futuristic pod showcased models transitioning glamorously, and Dean Caten’s appearance in full drag added a touch of humor to the vibrant presentation.
Fendi: Silvia Venturini Fendi described the collection as a juxtaposition of town and country, emphasizing the dialogue between urban and bucolic elements. Outerwear propositions included blouson jackets and peacoats in blanket wools, shearling, and soft leather. Fendi introduced innovative collaborations, showcasing the brand’s commitment to blending heritage with contemporary flair.